Portland Food Heads

I feel somewhat divided in reviewing Leonardo's Pizza, or Leo's as I've known it ever since my first week in college at UVM. In one way, the place embodies debauchery and drunken evenings, as most of these would end at 3:30 am with a "Leo's session." After graduation, I thought I had survived the near-death experience that comes as a result of too many Leo's sessions in one week, only to find out that Leo himself had followed me home from the Queen City and set up shop on Forest Ave. "He's a sly bastard," I thought to myself as I peered nervously out the car window the first time I saw them putting up the sign, "but I won't fall for his empty promises again. Not this time."

And here I am, reviewing Leonardo's Pizza. To call it Leo's at this point would be a bastardization of the word's meaning, as the 3:30 am Leo's sessions are long behind me. Even so, I still appreciate a pie from there every once in a while, especially when its too cold, snowy or rainy to get up the motivation to drive to the grocery.

Leonardo's Pizza prides itself on the quality of their process, as they use local products, organic wheat flour and VT mozzarella. Who knows what's true and what isn't, but it would be a mistake to compare this franchise with Domino's or Little Caesar's. The ingredients are definitely a step above most other pizza shops in their tier, and the more creative offerings, such as the "Louisiana Cajun Creation," set them apart from the herd.

When rating "normal" pizza in Portland (ie: not Flatbread or Bonobo), I stick to my all-time favorite - hot Italian sausage, mushroom and onion. While I have yet to find anywhere in town that serves this incarnation up better than Otto, Leonardo's is definitely not a bad alternative. I've had enough of their pies to know that they are consistent, and the flavor is always spot on. Although the pizzas somehow show up at the door within ten minutes of ordering, I've never ended up with a lemon. The crust is consistently crispy, the cheese is delicious and the sausage always has great flavor. The only element that doesn't quite sit well with me is their tomato sauce. I'm not sure exactly what it is, but the only way I can describe it is that it isn't "bright" enough. I think it needs sugar, but that's just me.

Coming full circle, from drunken nights to lights out at 10, Leonardo's Pizza still has some appeal, albeit for much different reasons. They're located at 415 Forest Ave. in Portland, ME.

~E~

And so a new year begins for Portland Food Heads, albeit a bit fashionably late. I've got a lot of new ideas kicking around my head about what will stay, what will change, and what new additions will start showing up on the blog in the near future, and I'm looking forward to 2010 being a pretty kick-ass year for both the blog and the Portland food community in general.

For 2010's first edition of Sunday Evening, I had originally planned on doing a simple roast chicken with some hearty, winter-laced sides; comfort food at its very best. In typical fashion, however, I took a left turn and ended up in semi-authentic French Acadia. God help those who go down this road, as one simple mistake can spell disaster.

Jambalaya, in just about any incarnation, has always been one of my favorite dishes; especially for a cold winter's night. Depending mainly upon who you ask and what day of the year it is, you'll likely come up with 100 different variations on a recipe that has since its inception been a chameleon, not unlike cassoulet, or even meatloaf. Ask your mother (or grandmother if you happen to be so lucky) how she makes her meatloaf; I'll bet you mine does it differently.

This is why I can't exactly tell you how I make jambalaya, whether or not you would like it, or how much sodium or saturated fat (eesh...) the plate to the left consists of. It is a chameleon, and I'm not sure I've ever made it the same way twice. This incarnation consisted of some beautiful fresh Maine shrimp, currently at the height of their season. These little nuggets of the deep are the most addicting water dwellers east of oysters, and add a briny yet mellow note to just about anything you through them at. Paired with a nice andouille sausage (and perhaps some shredded chicken if one was inclined), they make for a delectable Jambalaya. Aside from that, there isn't much left to say. I go heavy on the heat and use fire-roasted tomatoes to give the stew a deep, smokey flavor. The rest is pretty much by the book.

So even though I'm dying for a roast chicken as I write this, I think it's fair to say that, aside from another beer, there isn't a single thing I ever need while eating a bowl of Jambalaya.

~E~

Just so everyone is clear, Portland Food Heads is still alive. The post-holiday workload has been rather insane and I need this week to catch up. Posts will resume on Monday the 11th.

~E~

The holidays are finally here, and it's time for Portland Food Heads to take the rest of the year off. There may be a random post or two this week, but PFH is in "do not disturb" mode until January 1st, as there is much time to be spent with friends and family and I only have so much energy in me.

Thank you all for a wonderful year. The holiday contest was a big success - congratulations to the winner! The first eNewsletter will be going out soon after Christmas, and 2010 is looking to be a great year, with more of the good, less of the bad and a few new features that I'm working on.

That said, happy holidays and we'll see you next year!!!!

~E~

According to an ad in the Portland Phoenix, The Snow Squall Restaurant, located right over the bridge on Ocean st. in South Portland, is once again open for business after being closed for close to five years. The restaurant is serving breakfast, lunch and dinner and is closed on Mondays and Tuesdays.

For more information, visit their website.

~E~

Let it be known that it would be nearly impossible to write an overly negative review about Benkay Sushi. A very good friend of mine since childhood happens to be the owner's son. Although he has since moved to Japan, I won't soon forget being 16 years old and indulging in platters of sushi and more dishes than I'm capable of remembering. We'd go in for dinner, eat for 2 hours and walk out without a bill. Those were some of the first and most profound culinary experiences that I can remember, and also fall into the rare category of being truly unforgettable.
Needless to say at this point, Benkay and I go way back. I remember being one of their first customers when they opened over a decade ago, and have eaten at the restaurant at least three or four times a year since. Benkay has certainly aged well; the level of professionalism and quality has increased since the day they opened. Benkay's space is essentially spread between two rooms, although there is no definitive wall between them. On the left is all seating, while an upper tiered right-hand area features the sushi bar, along with more seating by the windows. Although my favorite spot to eat is at the sushi bar, there really isn't an uncomfortable place to sit in the entire restaurant. The room on the left offers views of the ocean, while the one on the right provides culinary theater; take your pick.

I recently had lunch at Benkay after not eating there for probably 3 months or so. I ordered the "lunch box special" with changes up frequently but on this day was comprised of teriyaki-glazed salmon, one roll, shumai seaweed salad and tempura.

I've always enjoyed Benkay's take on the bento box more so than anywhere else in the city. I'm not sure what it is, but I never walk out without a smile on my face. In this case, the shumai were incredible; delicate, in a sweet and piquant sauce. The salmon was equally enjoyable, as was the roll. The only disappointment was the seaweed salad. I'm not sure if it sat out for a while or what, but the gelatinous texture was not at all appetizing. Other than that, however, it was a really nice lunch.

Benkay has been an institution in Portland for as long as I can remember, and I can't imagine that changing anytime soon. Even with some very stiff competition as of late, Benkay continues to thrive and hold their own. I, for one, will be going back soon after the holidays.

Benkay Sushi is located at 2 India St. in Portland, ME.

~E~

Have you eaten at Benkay Sushi? Be sure to leave a comment about your experience!

First they started off in my humble little neighborhood and soon became an instant hit among both Deering Center residents and those from surrounding areas. Then, Siano's expanded their business, opening up a second restaurant in Freeport at 140 Main St.

Apparently things have gone well, as the restaurant plans to open it's third location right in downtown Portland. 505 Fore St. - which most people know as the location of the recently departed Una Wine Bar - will soon house Siano's third incarnation and will likely increase the growing franchise's already strong awareness.

For more information (and a pizza that's not half bad), visit Siano's' website.

~E~

First of all, an apology for the recent lack of posts. The end of the year has been pretty crazy, what with the approaching holidays, the token December sickness and a real job, and PFH has unfortunately fell by the wayside for the past week or so. While things may continue to be a bit slow until after the holidays, I can assure you it won't be nearly as bad as it has been recently.



Alright. With that out of the way, this week's episode of Vidappetit focuses on James and Andre Tranchemontagne of The Frog & Turtle in Westbrook. James (head chef, right) and his brother Andre have been working together for years at Uffa, Frog and Turtle and - most recently - the French Press Eatery, located in the space that used to house Freaky Bean in Westbrook. Watch as they talk about their new venture, the Frog and Turtle's concept and Andre's affinity for buckets of Mountain Dew.